The closure of a restaurant is never just the end of a business. For many, it represents the collapse of dreams, memories, and years of hard work. For Gemma Mascarenhas, the Indian-origin founder of Dubai’s beloved Goan restaurant Grubshack, the shuttering of her establishment due to financial hardships was more than just a commercial failure — it was a deeply personal loss that took a tragic toll on her health.
Shortly after her eatery closed down, Gemma Mascarenhas suffered a heart attack and had to undergo emergency surgery. While she is now in stable condition, her story is a poignant reminder of the emotional burden entrepreneurs carry, especially when their ventures are rooted in passion and purpose.
Founded in 2012, Grubshack was more than just a restaurant. It was a culinary haven where tradition met innovation, a space that echoed with laughter, smelled of spicy vindaloos, and resonated with the nostalgia of home-cooked Goan meals. The heartbreak surrounding its closure is not just about the end of a popular food joint but the unraveling of a dream that began in a modest 12-seater in Sharjah and grew into a community staple in Dubai.
The Legacy of Grubshack: From a Humble Kitchen to a Cultural Cornerstone
When Gemma Mascarenhas first opened Grubshack in 2012, it was a humble attempt to bring authentic Goan and Bombay-style cuisine to Sharjah’s dining scene. Starting out with only 12 seats, it was a small space filled with big dreams. But within a short time, the restaurant gained loyal patrons, some of whom were willing to travel from as far as Abu Dhabi to savor its offerings.
The food wasn’t just good — it was exceptional. It reminded people of home. It brought the flavors of Goa to the UAE and provided a sanctuary for those craving familiarity in a foreign land. Gemma was the heart and soul of Grubshack.
She single-handedly ran the kitchen, preparing dishes with an unmatched attention to detail. Each meal was a product of love — from hand-picked fish from local markets to home-ground spices that formed the base of rich curries and fiery masalas. The dishes had stories. The menu reflected generations of culinary wisdom passed down through her family.
In 2016, Grubshack moved to Dubai’s Health Care City, an upscale neighborhood that provided more visibility and footfall. Yet, despite the growth in size and popularity, the spirit of the restaurant remained deeply personal. The interior was curated to resemble a home — mismatched furniture, guitars on the wall, and vintage Bombay-style window frames created an atmosphere that felt more like a friend’s living room than a commercial eatery.
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People came not just for food but for warmth, connection, and a sense of belonging. Over the years, Grubshack became a cult favorite. It served as a cultural bridge between expats and locals, drawing crowds that craved an experience steeped in authenticity. The business was never driven by profit margins. It was about legacy, about keeping a piece of Goa alive in the heart of Dubai.
The Silent Burden: Financial Struggles and Emotional Collapse
While the food at Grubshack continued to win hearts, the business behind the scenes was under immense pressure. Like many small businesses across the globe, Grubshack faced unprecedented challenges during the pandemic. The impact was devastating. Revenue streams dwindled, supply chain disruptions became routine, and operational costs continued to mount. Despite their best efforts to stay afloat, the Mascarenhas family found themselves grappling with a grim financial reality.
According to her daughter, Marushka Coelho, the last month before the closure was particularly difficult. Gemma Mascarenhas carried the burden alone, shielding her family from the full extent of the crisis. She worked tirelessly, navigating a maze of setbacks while trying to preserve the identity and spirit of the restaurant. The financial strain was exacerbated by a bad business deal, which left the family in significant debt. And while the love of patrons remained, it wasn’t enough to sustain the mounting costs.
On June 30, 2024, after nearly a decade of operation, Grubshack shut its doors.
The closure wasn’t just a financial blow. For Gemma, it was a deeply emotional rupture. As her daughter recounted, “She was shattered.” The restaurant was more than a workplace — it was her sanctuary, her purpose, her second home. The loss hit her hard. The emotional weight eventually became physical. Shortly after the closure, she suffered a heart attack and had to undergo emergency surgery. It was a frightening moment for the family, but thankfully, she survived.
This incident serves as a stark illustration of how emotional and physical health are intertwined, especially for individuals whose identities are inseparably tied to their work. For Gemma Mascarenhas, Grubshack wasn’t a job — it was a manifestation of her soul. Watching it fall apart was like watching a piece of herself disintegrate.
A Daughter’s Promise: Reviving a Dream with Purpose, Not Profit
In the face of loss and uncertainty, a glimmer of hope has emerged. Marushka Coelho, Gemma Mascarenhas’s daughter, has vowed to revive Grubshack. She sees this mission not as a business venture but as a personal crusade — a tribute to her mother’s unwavering dedication and the culinary legacy she built from scratch.
“As her daughter, I just can’t watch it all fade away. We want to bring Grubshack back — not for profit, but for purpose,” she said. The family is now actively seeking support, whether in the form of investments, collaborations, or partnerships with like-minded individuals who understand the cultural and emotional value of Grubshack.
This next chapter of Grubshack, should it come to fruition, will likely take on a new shape — one that is perhaps more sustainable, collaborative, and resilient. But at its heart, it will still carry the same essence: homemade food, warmth, heritage, and love.
What makes this revival plan particularly moving is the motivation behind it. It is not rooted in financial recovery or commercial gain. It is a daughter’s attempt to preserve her mother’s dream, to give her something to live for, and to ensure that the thousands of memories created within those restaurant walls are not lost to time.
Grubshack may have closed its doors, but its spirit lives on — in every patron who tasted Gemma Mascarenhas’s cooking, in every conversation shared over steaming plates of fish curry, and now, in the determined heart of a daughter fighting to keep her mother’s dream alive.
This story is not just about food. It’s about passion, resilience, and the invisible emotional labor that so many small business owners endure. It’s a reminder that behind every family-run restaurant is a story of sacrifice, a lifetime of effort, and a beating heart that risks everything for a chance to serve.
As Gemma Mascarenhas recovers from her heart attack, her family and supporters now look toward the future with cautious optimism. With the right support and shared vision, Grubshack might once again open its doors — not as a profit-churning enterprise but as a beacon of tradition, love, and legacy.